Lockouts · Cambridge
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
The key turns a full circle without any resistance and the deadbolt stays exactly where it is. There is no click, nothing moves behind the face of the lock, and the door is as closed as it was before you touched it.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
In plain words
Most seized locks can be saved, and keeping your existing hardware is the aim. A cylinder that has stopped turning is usually recoverable with cleaning and fresh internal parts. A failed tailpiece is a small component swapped without touching the rest of the lock. A bolt bound by the door needs adjustment, not new hardware. Replacement is the answer for a plug or shell that is worn, damaged or hollowed out by corrosion beyond what cleaning and parts can fix, and then the new cylinder is matched to your keyway and finish and, where possible, keyed to the key already in your pocket.
How the visit goesThe key slides all the way in, exactly as it has for years, and then refuses to turn in either direction. Yesterday it needed a small wiggle. This morning it feels set in concrete, and pushing harder only makes the key flex.
Cambridge
How the visit goes
Loading the door while the key is worked
With the lock family narrowed, the locksmith puts a hand on the door. Pushing it into the frame, pulling it out, and lifting on the handle each change how a bound bolt sits in its pocket, and the key is tried gently in each position. If the key frees up under one of those loads, the door is the cause. Where a second entrance is open, the same lock family is compared with the door swung wide, since a bolt that throws smoothly in mid-air and binds when closed has been pinched by the frame. Nothing is forced during this test; it is a diagnosis, not an attempt.
Taking the load off a bound bolt
When the door is the cause, the opening is a matter of leverage rather than tools. The locksmith lifts, pushes or pulls the door to bring the bolt back into line with its pocket while the key turns, and the bolt slides home. With the door open, the reason is dealt with: hinge screws tightened or replaced with longer ones that reach the framing, a hinge shimmed to raise a dropped door, the strike plate moved or its edge dressed with a file, the bolt pocket deepened with a sharp chisel, or a weatherstrip trimmed. The lock is then thrown and retracted with the door closed until it moves without any pressure on the door.
The early warnings to act on
A lock gives notice before it seizes, and now you know the signs. A key that needs a jiggle to seat, a plug that turns stiffly on cold mornings, a bolt that drags in its pocket, a lever that returns slowly, or a key that comes out gritty are all invitations to act while the fix is small. Stop as soon as a key begins to bend; a snapped key turns a service call into an extraction. A puff of dry lubricant or a turn of the strike screws often settles it, and a call while the lock still turns is a shorter visit than a call after it stops.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
In the van
- Mortise case spring and hub
- Penetrating lubricant
- Dry PTFE or graphite lock lubricant
- Long hinge screws
- Key blanks and code cutter
What affects the quote
Same fees day, night or weekend
1Signs of an earlier struggle
A key snapped in the plug, a twisted cylinder or a bent latch from a screwdriver adds an extraction or a repair to the opening, and the locksmith points that out before quoting it.
2Keying a new cylinder to your existing key
Pinning a replacement cylinder to the key already on your ring, or rekeying other doors to match a new key, is extra work per cylinder and simplest to do in the same visit.
3When the call comes in
An evening, weekend or holiday call for a jammed lock costs the same amount as a weekday one. The locksmith looks at what is actually jammed once on site, and the exact figure follows from that, not from the clock.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening: questions
What should I tell you on the phone?
Say what the key does: refuses to turn, spins without effect, or works only when the door is pushed or pulled. Name the lock type if you can, whether it is a deadbolt, knob, lever or an old mortise lock, and which side of the building the door faces. Mention recent weather, any spray that went into the keyway, any other door you can use, and whether anyone is inside. That short list decides the tools that come.
How do I stop this from happening again?
Three habits cover most of it. Lubricate the cylinder with a dry lock product twice a year and keep oils out of it. Check that the door locks with no pressure on it each spring and fall, snugging hinge and strike screws when it starts to drag. Keep a lock de-icer handy and fit a keyhole cover on exposed doors. And act on the first stiff turn, because a lock that still turns is a smaller job than one that has stopped.
Should I spray something into the keyway while I wait?
Better not, unless it is a proper dry lock lubricant. Household oils, general penetrating sprays and hinge silicone thicken inside the cylinder and attract grit, so they buy a day and cost a service later. If the lock is frozen, a lock de-icer is fine; boiling water is not, since it refreezes deeper in. The most useful thing to do while waiting is to stop turning the key, so it does not bend or snap.
Lockout Services
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening near you
One team handles every service on this page for Cambridge, so a lockout can turn into a rekey, and a rekey into a properly set deadbolt, within the same visit if you want it. Each service is described separately below, but at the door they fit together as one piece of work.